1_art_duo chen

J. Appl. Cosmetol. 29, 3-15 (January/March 2011)
Nanotechnology for Topical Application in
Cosmetic Dermatology
Yan Wu, Yan Sun, Hong-Duo Chen, Xing-Hua Gao
State Key Department of Dermatology, No.1 Hospital of China Medical University, Shenyang - China Received: March, 2010. Presented at: The IX ISCD International Multidisciplinary Congress
“Wellness and Beauty Outside In: East & West working together”, Rome, 21-23October 2009.
Key words: Nanotechnology; Cosmetic dermatology; Skin;
Many skin conditions, such as dry skin, oily skin, hyper-, hypo- pigmentation, vascular deformities,photoaging, are major concerns in cosmetic dermatology. A variety of products have been formula-ted to protect the human skin. However, traditional topical cosmetic formulations have their limita-tions. For example, traditional formulations employed to absorb or block UV radiation are so thickthat they do not blend well into the skin and are cosmetically unappealing. There is a requirement forthe traditional sunscreens to be opaque, biologically and chemically inert, stable when applied on theskin, and resistant to water. Nanotechnology has been introduced into new cosmetic products in recent years. Nanotechnologyrefers to the precise manipulation of matter at the nanometer scale, i.e., materials are manufacturedto ultrafine nanoparticles (NPs) with a diameter of about 100 nm. Due to the surface physical-chemical activities, NPs have diversified properties which are oftendistinct from their counterpart macroparticles and is of particular interest to the skin care industry.
Using nano-sized particles in cosmetics, products with improved texture, more vibrant color andgreater skin penetration have been generated. However, there has been controversy regarding thesafety of topical application of NPs. The potential harms are evading from immunologic defensemechanisms, forming complexes with proteins, inducing the formation of free radicals, damage onliving cells, et al. This paper provides an overview of the ongoing research on nanotechnology for topical applicationin cosmetic dermatology.
Nanotechnology for Topical Application in Cosmetic Dermatology Riassunto
Molte sono le condizioni cutanee che interessano la Dermatologia Cosmetologica quali, la cute secca,oleosa, affetta da iper ed ipopigmentazioni, da alterazioni del microcircolo superficiale e/o foto-invecchiamento. Molti sono i prodotti formulati per risolvere questi problemi.
I classici prodotti cosmetici però hanno ancora molte limitazioni. Ad esempio, alcune formulazioniutilizzate per neutralizzare o respingere le radiazioni solari, sono molto grasse e pastose e non rispon-dono perfettamente né in termini di compliance cosmetica né in termini di efficacia (non sono ingrado di eliminare totalmente sia gli UVB che gli UVA). Si sente, quindi, la necessità di avere pro-tettivi solari più stabili, biologicamente e chimicamente inerti e resistenti al lavaggio.
Recentemente nelle formulazioni dei prodotti cosmetici è stata introdotta la nanotecnologia . Questabranca tecnica si occupa della utilizzazione e della manipolazione di materiali su scala nanometricache rendono le materie prime ultrafini, perchè di dimensioni pari a circa 100 nanometri.
Per le loro particolari caratteristiche chimico-fisiche, queste nanoparticelle hanno proprietà totalmen-te diverse rispetto alle macroparticelle dello stesso ingrediente chimico. Pertanto rivestono un inte-resse particolare per l’industria cosmetica. Utilizzando nano particelle e nano polveri, i cosmeticiassumono caratteristiche migliori in termini di consistenza, gradevolezza, aspetto del colore e capa-cità di penetrazione.
Esistono, comunque, alcune perplessità nell’uso di questi nuovi materiali circa la loro sicurezza neiconfronti delle difese immunologiche in quanto potrebbero generare complessi con le proteine cellu-lari, generando anche un maggior numero di radicali liberi .
Questo articolo intende riportare le ultime ricerche condotte sulle nanotecnologie per fornire al letto-re un quadro quanto più completo possibile sugli attuali usi dei nano materiali nella DermatologiaCosmetologica.
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Author Address:
Hong-Duo Chen, Prof.
State Key Department of DermatologyNo.1 Hospital of China Medical UniversityShenyang, China, 110001

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